10 Night Itinerary :
Getting to Leon:
At least 7 direct trains a day run from Madrid Chamartin Station to Leon (about 2.5 hours travel time).
Day 1 - LEON We meet at the
Posada Regia Hotel in central Leon at 2.30 pm. The hotel is just a short
taxi-ride from the train station in the heart of the historic quarter. After checking in,
we have
a walking tour of the city to explore the old
quarter. During the Middle Ages Leon was a major stop for pilgrims on
the Camino to Santiago and, as such, accumulated a wealth of art
and architectural treasures. We see the magnificent Cathedral with its
stained glass windows preserved from the 13th century, the Basilica de
San Isidoro with its Pantheon where eleven kings and numerous Spanish queens are
buried, and the Casa Botines designed by the quirky architect Antoni Gaudi
As capital of the region of Leon y Castile, the city of Leon is
surrounded by land producing superb food and the city therefore takes
pride in its
gastronomy. We sample this at our welcome dinner in a restaurant near
our hotel. Dinner included.
Day
2 - ORBIGO TO ASTORGA This
morning our private coach takes us from Leon to start our walk at Orbigo. It was here, on
the bridge at Orbigo, in 1434, that a knight, Suero, held what may have
been the last great medieval tournament. Having been scorned by his lady
love, Suero challenged other knights to a joust. Today, if you stand on
the bridge and use a little imagination,
you can almost hear the horses
whinny and the clash of steel. As we start to walk, the terrain changes
from flat plains to low foothills. The clouds ahead on the horizon soon
reveal themselves to be chains of mountains in the distance but the
walking is still quite easy. In the afternoon we reach Astorga with its
Cathedral built in 1471 and a fairytale Bishop's Palace designed by the
eccentric architect Antoni Gaudi which now holds an interesting "Museum
of the Camino". There is also a Museum of Chocolate that tells the story of
the local chocolate industry which flourished when cocoa was first
brought to Spain from the New World. The town still boasts about its
great chocolate and there are mouth-watering window displays. Our
hotel faces onto the main square and the Gaudi Palace
Distance 20 km or 12 km (you choose) Dinner
included.
Day 3
-
ASTORGA TO VILLAFRANCA
Beyond Astorga we begin one of the most historically important parts of
the Camino over Mount Irago. Our bus takes us up as far as Foncebadon
and from here we ascend to the Cruz de Ferro (iron cross) under which
pilgrims of old placed a stone which they had carried from home as
penance. The walk is uphill but those who want to avoid the ascent can
take the bus to near the top. The surrounding terrain is rugged with
lovely views. From the top we
descend gradually into the lush Bierzo valley and along the way pass
through the village of El Aciebo which appears to be lost in a time-warp
from the Middle Ages. We continue gradually down to the beautifully restored old
town of Molinaseca with its Roman bridge. Our reward at the end of the
day is staying at the lovely Parador at Villafranca with its heated pool
and spa. Villafranca is one of the most atmospheric towns on the Camino
and retains much of its medieval and Renaissance atmosphere. In medieval
times if a pilgrim was too frail to continue his journey the same papal
indulgences were granted as if he had reached Santiago. Distance
20 km or 12 km (you choose) Dinner included.
Day
4 -
OCEBREIRO TO TRIACASTELA From Villafranca our bus takes us up the OCebreiro pass
where we visit the hamlet of OCebreiro. Legend says that the Holy Grail
(the cup from which Christ drank at the Last Supper) is hidden at
OCebreiro (although many other places in the world make the same claim).
From there our walk descends into the region of Galicia. Gray and green tones
predominate and one hears the "Gallego" language (local dialect).
Small villages are strung along this part of the Camino - sometimes just a few
houses surrounding a stone church. Fields are fenced with
bramble-covered stones and one sees the ruins of castles that once protected pilgrims.
We reach the quaint town
of Triacastela and then take a side-trip by our private bus to our
spectacular accommodation at
the town of Monteforte de Lemos. In a monumental
complex, comprised of a
castle, a monastery and a palace, we find the Parador
de Monforte and it is here that we stay the night. The origins of the
complex date back to the 9th century but today it is a magnificently
restored Parador hotel.
Dinner included.
Distance
19 km or 12 km (you choose)
Day 5 - SARRIA
TO PORTOMARIN
Today we
return to the Camino and stop to see the majestic monastery of Samos
founded in the 6th century. The historic structure is filled with art treasures and
has a large cloister with interesting carved stones - most depict
religious themes related to the Benedictines but one has an amusing
hieroglyphic which, when translated, says (in Latin), "What are you
looking at, stupid?" (Monks were not supposed to be looking at the
ceiling). From here we continue to km 100 near Sarria on the Camino where we start
our walk. It is from here that those who would like to qualify for the Compostela Certificate must walk
the full 100 km. Today's walk is on a tranquil
trail through rolling countryside alongside jewel-like green fields and
between stone fences covered with bramble and wild-flowers. Late in the
day we reach Portomarin where we stay at the Pousada de Portomarin with
its beautiful views of a lake and green hills.
In 1963,
during the dictator Franco’s era, the old town of Portomarin was moved
stone by stone from the valley to a hill to make way for a reservoir.
Franco was from Galicia and tried various improvement schemes but with
not much success until the revival of the Camino in the 1990’s.
Portomarin is known for its "queimadas" (a drink made with flaming
liqueur, sugar, lemon and coffee beans). You will hear the ghost legend
associated with the gueimada but don't worry about scary ghost stories
keeping you awake. If you sample a gueimada you are
guaranteed to sleep well. Dinner included
Distance 19 km or 12 km (you choose)
Day 6 -
PORTOMARIN TO PALAS DE REI Leaving
Portomarin, the Galician countryside is fragrant with forests of
eucalyptus and pine as the trail winds past small farms and remote
churches. Our goal is the town of Palas de Rei - a distance of 20 km.
For those who don’t
feel like walking 20 km and don’t care about
obtaining the Compostela certificate it is possible to stop part way and
our bus will
provide transportation . From Palas de Rei we
travel 5 km by coach to
our accommodation at the Balneario de Rio Pambre. A "Balneario" is
a spa with a natural hot spring pool. This one is located in a lovely
natural setting by the River Pambre and offers a perfect way to relax
tired muscles after a day of walking.
Dinner included Distance
20 km (or less if you prefer)
Day 7 -
PALAS DE REI TO MELIDE This morning we return to Palas de Rei and walk to
the town of Melide. This is an easy walk with no hard ascents or
descents
The history of the
village of Melide dates back to the 10th century. In 1320 Melide was
granted the
privilege of building a castle and village walls but in 1467 the town
offended the Archbishop and started a series of fights against his
power. Because of this, the walls and the castle were destroyed. For
centuries after that, like many villages in
Galicia, Melide suffered from emigration of its people to Cuba and
Argentina and it is only since the revival of the Camino de Santiago that
prosperity has begun to return. Those interested in local legends learn
that this stage is dominated by St Julian. It seems that Julian was
tricked by the devil into killing his parents. To atone for his sin he
ran a pilgrim hospital and the church of San Julian do Camino
illustrates the story. But the Camino need not be about saints and
legends. In Melide we find shops, bars and restaurants scattered along
the narrow streets. Melide is famous for its "pulpo" (octopus cooked in
it’s own juice in large copper pots and sprinkled with paprika). If
octopus doesn't appeal, this region is also known for its wonderful
cheeses made from the milk of Galician cows who graze on the lush grass.
In the afternoon
our coach takes us to a lovely boutique hotel with big
gardens
Distance 14 km. Dinner included
Day 8 -
MELIDE
TO ARZUA Today we
return to Melide and continue our Camino walk.
In this
stage, the way is easy with a few gentle climbs and
descents alternating with flat stretches. By early afternoon we reach
Arzúa, the undisputed town of cheese. One of the better known local
cheeses is "tetilla" whose shape is similar to that of a breast and
nipple. The story goes that, when the Santiago Cathedral was being
rebuilt in Gothic style, stone carvers were hired to carve friezes on
the arched doors. One statue that resulted was that of a "well-endowed"
bare breasted woman but sight of bare breasts scandalized pious church
officials who ordered the statue covered. The population complied but as
a sign of rebellion the local cheese-makers started making cheese in the
shape of a “tetilla” and the tradition remains today. In every store you
will see cheese in the shape of a large breast complete with nipple. You
will find it delicious when melted in many Galician recipes.
From Arzua
our coach takes us off the Camino to our accommodation at Pazo de Lestrove
near Padron. The name Padron means “mooring stone” and legend claims
this is where, two thousand years ago, the boat carrying St James' body
arrived in Spain and moored in the river. You can visit the local
church to see the legendary stone or
you may
prefer to just enjoy our lovely “pazo” accommodation with its pool set in acres of
pretty gardens. Once a palatial country escape for the Bishops of
Santiago, the pazo dates back to the 16th century but today it is a four
star hotel.
Distance 15 km (less if you prefer) Dinner Included.
Day 9 - ARZUA TO RUA/PEDROUZO
Today we
return to Arzua and continue our walk through pretty Galician
countryside. On
this stage, the path is easy on small dirt roads between villages, with
a few ascents and descents alternating with flat stretches.
The countryside is a mix
of
pretty farmland and eucalyptus forests. We pass fields, oak groves and
small hamlets with cafes and bars catering to walkers. One enterprising
local brewer has labelled his beer “Pilgrim Beer” in several languages
and over a glass of the brew you may meet walkers from many countries. When we reach Pedrouzo our bus picks us up and returns
us for another comfortable night at our lovely pazo.
Distance 19 km (less if you prefer) Dinner included
Day 10 -
PEDROUZO TO
SANTIAGO Almost
there ! Our final stage is from Pedrouzo into Santiago. As we near our
goal, the way leads to the "Mount of Joy" where medieval pilgrims first
caught a glimpse of Santiago Cathedral’s bell towers. Tradition says
that the first one of a group to arrive at the top was nicknamed Leroy
(The King). Next comes Lavacolla (translated “lava” to wash and
“colla” means “bottom”). Pilgrims stopped here to wash (probably for the
first time in months since in the 1100's soap and water were considered
unhealthy). We then head for the Cathedral where those who wish can collect
their Compostela certificates and we have a quick tour. Our hotel is
located nearby in the historic area and we head there for our farewell
dinner. Dessert is usually a slice of Camino cake, a
delicious almond cake topped with with powdered sugar and the sign of St
James' sword.
Dinner included.
Distance 19 km (less if you prefer)
Day 11 - Tour
ends after breakfast. Optional extra nights in Santiago can be booked
so you can
explore the city’s many historic sites and its narrow medieval streets
filled with shops and cafes.
Galician cuisine is known for its wonderful sea-food and its many
varieties of local cheeses. You might wish to take a local bus to
Finisterre which was the end of the known world in medieval times. Here,
pilgrims picked up a shell as a souvenir before starting the long walk
home. You don’t have to walk home - there are trains or planes from
Santiago to Madrid or buses to Porto.
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